Leather Shoes
The line this company is named for. Leather is the least forgiving material on the floor. It is graded rather than specified, it varies hide to hide, and almost every decision that decides the finished pair is made before a single panel is stitched.
Styles already built on this line.
Sample pairs from the development bench. Send the one closest to yours and it can be priced.
A slip-on has nothing to hide behind: the apron seam and where the trim sits are the whole style, and both are settled on the sampling bench. The ornament is a bought-in component, so it is specified with the pattern rather than chosen after it.
| Upper, as photographed | Slip-on loafer, moccasin apron seam, metal snaffle-bit trim across the vamp |
|---|---|
| Sole, as photographed | Flat sole unit on a low stacked heel |
| Material | Hide grade and finish agreed at quotation |
| Construction | Confirmed at sampling |
| Size run | Graded from the approved sample |
| Colourways | To your specification |
| Terms | FOB, ex Bình Dương |
The gusset height and the pull tab are what decide whether this boot goes on easily, and they are fitted to the last rather than to the drawing. A lug unit this deep is bought in, so the sole is quoted as a component alongside the upper.
| Upper, as photographed | Ankle boot, elastic side gussets, pull tab at the back |
|---|---|
| Sole, as photographed | Exaggerated lug unit, cemented |
| Material | Hide grade and finish agreed at quotation |
| Construction | Confirmed at sampling |
| Size run | Graded from the approved sample |
| Colourways | To your specification |
| Terms | FOB, ex Bình Dương |
Apron stitching that shows is stitching that has to be even along its whole length, which is a closing-room question before it is a design one. A pale upper also puts colour consistency across the run into the quotation.
| Upper, as photographed | Moccasin loafer, visible apron stitching, clean throat line |
|---|---|
| Sole, as photographed | Flat unit, no heel lift |
| Material | Hide grade and finish agreed at quotation |
| Construction | Confirmed at sampling |
| Size run | Graded from the approved sample |
| Colourways | To your specification |
| Terms | FOB, ex Bình Dương |
A taller shaft changes the pattern more than it looks: the gusset has to stretch over a longer opening without losing its shape. The platform edge is part of the sole unit, so it is chosen at sampling and not adjusted afterwards.
| Upper, as photographed | Tall Chelsea shaft, elastic side gussets, back pull tab |
|---|---|
| Sole, as photographed | Chunky lug unit with a raised platform edge |
| Material | Hide grade and finish agreed at quotation |
| Construction | Confirmed at sampling |
| Size run | Graded from the approved sample |
| Colourways | To your specification |
| Terms | FOB, ex Bình Dương |
Knee-high is the least forgiving height on this line — the shaft has to hold its line without collapsing at the ankle, and the stretch panel is what makes it fit a range of calves. The buckle strap is decoration and fit at the same time.
| Upper, as photographed | Knee-high shaft, ankle buckle strap, ribbed stretch panel up the back |
|---|---|
| Sole, as photographed | Stacked block heel on a lightly treaded unit |
| Material | Hide grade and finish agreed at quotation |
| Construction | Confirmed at sampling |
| Size run | Graded from the approved sample |
| Colourways | To your specification |
| Terms | FOB, ex Bình Dương |
A pointed toe is a last question, not a pattern question, so this style is quoted against the last it is built on. Two straps means two buckle positions to grade across the size run.
| Upper, as photographed | Pointed-toe slingback, two buckled straps across the vamp |
|---|---|
| Sole, as photographed | Flat unit, thin edge |
| Material | Hide grade and finish agreed at quotation |
| Construction | Confirmed at sampling |
| Size run | Graded from the approved sample |
| Colourways | To your specification |
| Terms | FOB, ex Bình Dương |
The knit cuff is a second material joined to the upper, which adds a closing operation and a supplier to the quotation. Lace-ups are otherwise the most forgiving construction on this line.
| Upper, as photographed | Lace-up hiker, folded knit cuff, padded collar |
|---|---|
| Sole, as photographed | Lug platform unit, raised sidewall |
| Material | Hide grade and finish agreed at quotation |
| Construction | Confirmed at sampling |
| Size run | Graded from the approved sample |
| Colourways | To your specification |
| Terms | FOB, ex Bình Dương |
The strap crosses the elastic gusset, so it has to be positioned where it does not fight the stretch — a fitting decision, made on the sample pair. Hardware finish is specified with the upper, because plating has its own lead time.
| Upper, as photographed | Ankle boot, buckled strap over the gusset, metal hardware |
|---|---|
| Sole, as photographed | Low stacked heel on a plain unit |
| Material | Hide grade and finish agreed at quotation |
| Construction | Confirmed at sampling |
| Size run | Graded from the approved sample |
| Colourways | To your specification |
| Terms | FOB, ex Bình Dương |
How a leather pair
is actually built.
Five stages run on this floor. These are the four where a leather order is won or lost — and it is cutting, not finishing, that decides the price.
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Design and sampling
The last, the sole unit, the pattern and the hide grade are all settled here, on a physical pair built on the last it will be produced on.
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Cutting
Where most of the yield is won or lost. Grain placement and colour consistency across the run are decided at this bench and cannot be corrected downstream.
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Closing and lasting
The upper is stitched and pulled over the last. Anything the pattern got wrong appears here, against the sample pair you approved.
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Finishing and inspection
Edges, polish and packing. Every pair is checked against the approved sample before it is boxed for export.
What to send
for a leather quotation.
Four things move the price on this line. Send those and the reply can carry figures rather than a range.
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Hide grade and finish
The single biggest line in the cost, and the thing that decides how the pattern nests on the skin.
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Construction
Agreed per style at sampling. Tell us what you have in mind and we will say whether the floor has the equipment for it.
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Last, or a reference pair
An existing last is production. A new last is development work before it is production.
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Size run and ratio
Grading work and cutting yield both come off this.
Send the lining, the sole unit and any recycled-content claim too if you have them — useful, but they will not hold up a price. Terms are FOB, ex Bình Dương: we buy the leather, or work to your nominated tannery; minimums, sampling and bulk timing are quoted per programme.
Audited against- Global Recycled Standard Certification
- amfori BSCI Audit programme
- SMETA 4-Pillar Audit methodology
- SCAN Audit programme
Global Recycled Standard
amfori BSCI
SMETA 4-Pillar
SCAN
Send the hide and the pattern.
Or the reference pair you want matched. Either gets a straighter answer than a category does, and it gets it faster.